Riding With Phil Liggett and Friends

On 18th August 2002, we were three members of the Wantage CTC Section to turn up in Stannington, in the outskirts of Sheffied, for the second edition of the Phil & Friends ride across most of the Peak District. The concept had been launched last year, and just consists in having CTC President Phil Liggett, together with some few former top racers, riding a circuit designed along what used to be Milk Race portions across the most scenic parts of the Peak District; the ‘stars’ mix quite anonymously together with ordinary riders, and go chatting from one group to another as the ride goes on. The motivation of the event, on top of providing riders with a splendid day out, is also to collect funding for the Cyclist Defense Fund of the CTC which provides legal support to cyclists involved in road accidents, through both entry fee and sponsorship.

There are actually two circuits available: a smaller loop, 100km long, avoids the steepest climb of the day and offers an easy finish. The longer loop, 150km long, is basically the smaller circuit plus an extra, seriously hilly, loop around mid-point. Both events can be entered either through the CTC or through Audax UK, and offer controls and food stops around the circuit pretty much according to the typical pattern of Audax UK events.

All three of us had decided to enter the longer circuit; it’s a long drive up there so let’s make sure we don’t spend less time on the bike than in the car! So there we were at the start, looking around and realising that we were among the very few riders having turned up on touring bikes. The vast majority of the crowd was on racing bikes and kit, giving the strange impression of being at the start of a continental cyclosportive… but in Yorkshire.

Before the start, Phil delivered a short speech. CTC HQ had gone quite excited in the days before by allegedly outrageous media reports about poor behaviour of cyclists on the road, so Phil took the opportunity to let us know we were supposed to be on that day the living example of the negation of these unfounded rumours. Fair enough, with maybe 300 riders or more on hilly roads a bit of caution made good sense indeed!

Then we were off, and soon hit the first bit of climb in the immediate surroundings of Stannington, when the road goes up the moor. Together with Jan and Kevin we were soon relegated behind most of the crowd, but as we had agreed that even with an Audax brevet card in hand we were not going to let time spoil the fun of the ride, we just kept going steadily. Up the moorland, I could follow Phil about 100 yards behind but when the first steep climb appeared, a nasty one, just before Midhope, he just went out of sight. Hey, guys, the President does not only talk about it, he has obviously kept good legs!

By then some riders were already giving some signs of tiredness, only 10km into the ride! Some others did not really seem to have heard Phil at the start, as I could watch in amazement a bunch of twelve riders or so falling off suddenly and piling up on a flat, dry portion at not more than 20km/h! No damage excepted to pride, but a clear warning that eventually it was probably better to stay on my own…

Once into Holmfirth, I strongly resisted the tentation to dodge these roadwork traffic lights (I had dodged these very same ones the Saturday before, on an Audax, but orders are orders…), and there I was in the first control for a light breakfast at the Victoria Inn.

I will never quite understand how British riders can possibly ride their bikes on a hilly course in the middle of the summer while being on a diet of tea, one of the most efficient diuretics one can think of. But having adopted quite a few local traditions I definitely can’t cope with this one; so the breakfast was fast, and although Jan and Kevin were not yet in sight I opted for keeping going – there was Holme Moss up there, so let me make good use of the spare time.

Holme Moss was as good as ever. I don’t know why, but I do like this climb – either way. The views are great as long as the mist is not on, and the gradient remains civilised by these shores standards. I rode together with a local on a tourer, who remembered having gone to France seeing the Tour in the years when Fignon won it; despite being 20 years older than me (maybe more) he soon dropped me as the gradient went up. I then passed a rider on a racing bike and in Lance’s outfit who just fell off in one curve – apparently too steep for him… The boy was obviously preparing himself a difficult day! Some riders passed me as well, and there were some few people on the top cheering us as we went by.

Once Holme Moss had gone it was just a fast descent and then an easy undulating ride to Glossop, with gorgeous views all round. We rode through Glossop and then up towards Chapel-en-le-Frith, with changing views over the moor. I had a chat with a lady rider on a touring bike, who aims at riding Paris-Brest-Paris next year – see you there then! Once in Chapel the views changed again, as we went gently up Rushup Edge through a forested hill; the views on the flattish portion on the top were just as splendid as ever. A last small effort up Mam Nick, then the precipitous descent into the Vale of Edale, and here we arrived at the mid-point control in Green Acres Farm which was doing roaring trade with all these hungry cyclists looking for refuelling. It took some few minutes for getting the order placed, but with 45 minutes spare time in hand I decided to have a good lunch and wait for Jan and Kevin to turn up.

I spotted a rider wearing a superb top of the late Gitane-St Raphael racing team, so I could’t let him go like that and just sat in front of him. He had a large smile when I asked him whether he was riding a Gitane: ‘Not any more these days, but I used to. It was before your time, well before; I rode with Coppi, Bobet, Anquetil…’. Ooops… It appears I am given the privilege to talk to Brian Robinson himself, the first British rider to have won a stage on the Tour back in the Fifties! He just turned up from nearby Huddersfield where he lives, he looks at least ten years younger than he is, and he still goes out on his bike about twice a week. I eventually let him go first, having little appetite for seeing Brian zooming past me on Winnats Pass.

It’s now control closing time and neither Jan nor Kevin are to be seen, so I decide to keep going, assuming they decided to ignore the brevet card and just took it easy. How much appropriate is the first next instruction: ‘Continue to Hope’! Because after Hope, comes Castleton. And then, the dreaded instruction that whoever has gone there already can’t possibly forget: ‘L SP Chesnut Centre’. Winnats Pass… The last, and first time I went up there, I am sure was the hardest moment I ever experienced on the bike. It took me at least two hours to recover from it, and I still haven’t a single memory of where I rode in these two hours…

So you will understand I summoned all the concentration needed for having a chance of arriving at the top in any other condition than wrecked. Take it easy… Look around and think of something else… And above all, Brian Robinson said you won’t have to walk it up so you can’t disappoint Brian!

I eventually made it. In the middle of the pass, a 4 wheel drive stopped, engine off. Too steep for it, a chance he left me a narrow berth on the left hand side… And this guy up there pushing his bike while walking, it took me an eternity for eventually passing him, probably not any faster than 4 km/h… You understand now why I don’t want a speedo? Do you realise the effect of actually knowing how pathetically slow you are in a moment like that?

I was over the moon once on the top. And now came the time for this info control, which obviously could only be on the top of the hill. Well, ‘What is the fare for children at Speedwell Cavern?’ Speedwell Cavern, of course, the one on the left hand side. At the … bottom of Winnats Pass! Bugger…Descent Winnats, get the info and climb it all again? No way! Rather forget the brevet, and just see whether a fellow rider won’t be prepared to trade the info a bit later on… Looks like I am getting increasingly upset with info controls these days…

The following section offered again superb views, on the way towards Peak Forest. And then came the quite misleading info control at the SP to Wormhill, ha! The second SP to Wormhill, not the first one. Quite a few people must have taken the short-cut, because I remained on my own for the following 10km or so, over the pleasant moorland on the heights above Tideswell and Litton. From there on, it’s only to descent to Monsal Dale with more splendid views, before climbing up to Monsal Head in brilliant sunshine. And there on the top, there is a group of familiar faces (regulars of the Audax hilly rides) enjoying refreshments at the café. I order an ice cream, then start to chat with them and realise they have missed the info control at the Wormhill SP! Great, there it is, and what was it at Winnats? And by the way, what’s the use of these info controls???

From there, it’s nearly downhill on the way. Not quite, but after the last section even a slight incline tends to feel like a descent! We ride together with a local on a racing bike, pretty much worn out by now (the guy, not the bike) up to the Bamford reservoir where I stop for a fast snack from the saddlebag – yes, these accessories have their use occasionally! And then it’s the last long drag up the A57 towards Sheffield, and then up the moor to the finish. As I past one after one five riders on racing bikes on this last section, I can’t hear any more any of these amused comments about this big saddlebag and large pannier which were generously displayed at the start… Amazing how one can change on the same day, isn’t it? The bicycle is definitely a fascinating machine…

At the finish, I checked that Jan and Kevin had indeed decided to finish on the 100km route. Then I left my brevet card, was given a certificate by CTC chairman Peter Latarche, in excellent French. And eventually I enjoyed a cup of tea – yes, once the ride is over, not before! – together with two other Audax riders including Neville Chanin, who delegated this year the organisation of his Evesham Three Counties 200 so that he could ride the Phil & Friends!

Was it good? I bet it was. But let’s make it clear: the 150km route requires riders who enjoy hill climbing – I reckon it certainly has not less than 2800m climbing altogether, making of it the second hardest ride in the Audax calendar on this distance after the (Yorkshire) Dales Grimpeur (3850m out of 170km!!! An absolute killer…). Quite far behind indeed, but nevertheless it is a seriously hilly route. The 100km is quite easier, noticeably because once up Mam Nick there is nearly nothing left to climb over the last 20km. And it does not include Winnats! But it has many of the views…

So whatever you are up to, I guess one of the distances should suit you… See you there next year?

Laurent CHAMBARD

Wantage CTC